Sunday, March 31, 2013

Sweet Potato Slip Production

Sand Hill Preservation Center

It costs quite a bit of money to buy enough sweet potato slips to grow a useful volume of potatoes. So don't buy the slips, unless you're after a different variety, get your own started! It's easy as can be!

I buy organic sweet potatoes and put them in a container with water, bottom down. Bottom being the end that wasn't directly attached to the plant. Slips will start growing and when it is time I cut the slips and plant them. All you need is a "node" planted in the dirt and it'll grow.  I had the above ground tops die back but it still grow because the node and stem survived. I cut my slips but there are different trains of thought on that.

Another method is to plant the whole potato in damp sand. The slips will grow up and you cut them off. This can be done on a field scale.

So why not just plant the potatoes like a regular potato? Because each slip is a new plant that needs to be separated to it's own individual hill.

The link at the top is for a preservation center in Iowa. He is managing an awesome amount of varieties of sweet potatoes. If you want a crazy, unique variety check him out he's got hundreds!

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Notable Quotes

When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant. ~Author Unknown

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Rabbit Nestboxes

I built four nestboxes like this so cage floor space wouldn't be taken over by a nestbox. I have one box that's your standard one that is set inside the cage.

You actually line the mesh floor with cardboard. The purpose of the mesh is pee drainage.  And then you put straw in on top of the cardboard for bedding.

The harder aspect is having successful kindling... so far we're 1 for 3. Yuck.

Saturday, March 16, 2013

Pasture Improvement

I come from Montana. Up there hay rings don't seem to be used much. I could be wrong but I really didn't ever see any. What I would see are hay bunks in a feedlot or the bale rolled out on the pasture.

PROBLEMS WITH HAYRINGS

First, a hayring gives you a ten foot radius circle of concentrated manure, pee and hay wastage. A very concentrated circle. This is relatively okay so long you move the ring each time you put in a new bale.. which brings me to the next problem. Most only seem to move the rings seasonally and sometimes never. Don't be lazy! Make that in place fertilization count! Cost is the third problem. They cost money to buy. Some times prohibitively so. If not heavily built, they will get busted up and bent and you'll have to eventually replace it. More money. Finally, they can be problematic for horned livestock. Which I have and have fairly long horns to boot.

PROBLEMS WITH ROLLING OUT BALES

While this spreads the manure over a much larger area, it really only works well with a herd size that can eat that much in a day. But even then, there tends to be excess hay wastage.

MODIFIED BALE ROLL OUT

So this is what we do. The bale is rolled out over the area we want to fertilize, this is generally progressive and after several bales can cover a large area, and a "break" wire (electrified) cuts the cattle off what we don't want them to waste. They will eat the hay from underneath the wire but in general we'll give a foot or two hay strip.

This method still has problems. If it snows heavy your unused hay gets covered up. If it's not too bad you can dig the edge out a little and the cows usually take it from there. Sometimes the cows get out and make a mess of the future hay. This irritates me the most.

CONCLUSIONS

Though all these methods have their problems, if managed well you can put carbon and manure down nicely in a manner that improves your pastures. The picture below is of the modified bale roll out. We have a hay ring with our beef herd as they like to break the fence a little too much. So we move the ring every time we feed them hay.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Blogger App Issues

While the apparently is nice and all it has some whopper issues.. I have to highlight text to link but I can't get it to highlight the just the text I want then scroll up to select link. The text manipulation has to be thought of ahead of time for the same reason. Inline pictures are a no go, all go to the end. And finally it won't let me use HTML tags to do the manipulations myself. Google you've got some work to do! My software engineer husband is less than impressed and so am I.

Tapping Trees for Syrup

I live in Kansas ... the last thing I ever thought I'd be doing is tapping trees to make syrup! Notice! I did NOT say MAPLE syrup. Nope, I'm tapping Black Walnuts of all the crazy things. I have lots of walnut trees, granted a lot of the big ones were sold for lumber right before we bought the place. Upwards of $8000-10000 worth of large trees taken. I can understand though... the guy was trying to pay doctor bills.

There are some maples down here and people do tap them but you just don't get the sap flows like you do up north. Kind of comes in fits and spurts. But I happily have some friends who've been doing a little sugaring the last few years so I at least had someone to ask basic questions. The taps I made are based on what he did. Super cheap! I use a 6" length of 1/2" PEX. I added the screw to hang a bucket from, he stuck a 1 gallon milk jug over it with just an X cut in it to slip over the tap end. The jug is oriented upside down so you just unscrew or pop the cap to empty it. I don't have milk jugs in abundance ..  I don't buy milk. I did have a bunch of ice cream buckets I was given recently and also discovered grocery store bakeries are a source for free to cheap buckets 2 gallon and up. So I used what I had. I even had the PEX and screws amazingly enough. But mathwise, PEX is about $0.25 per foot so 2 taps plus a couple screws and a little tape (seals the tap in the hole better; use duct tape or first aid tape) you're looking at probably $0.20 per tap.

I used a carpenter awl to drill the holes with an appropriately sized bit. Takes a little muscle but you drill approximately a 2" deep hole, clean the debris out, use a hammer to tap the tap in and hang your container on it. Violá! You're collecting sap!

Now, there is a minimum tree diameter you can tap. Tap nothing less than a 10" diameter (31" circumference at chest height). Bigger trees can handle more taps. At a 20" diameter (64" circumference) a tree can handle two taps; at 25"+ (79"+), three.

Something I learned, because I don't have a book, is to tap the anything but the north side of the tree; south and east being the best.
After collecting enough sap, 50-60 gallons will produce approximately 1 gallon of syrup, you boil and boil and boil in a flat pan with no more than a sustained 2" of liquid in the pan. Do this outside over a fire or propane camp stove (the stove, however, is not economical for the amount you need to burn). Why outside? Too much humidity in the house even burning a wood stove. Learned that one too. There's more information on the web about the boiling aspect than the tapping so I'm not going to get detailed about it here.

So far I've made around 1 gallon of syrup. My first attempt at the sugaring aspect ... I nearly had sugar! Too far! The flavor is dark and nutty but nice and sweet. Very different than maple syrup.

Where did I get the idea to tap walnuts? Plants for a Future at http://pfaf.org/user/Search_Use.aspx?glossary=Sap. (Sorry, the blogger app has issues.. otherwise I'd link it.)

Saturday, March 9, 2013

A Very Useful Garden Addition ...

The idea of rabbits may not cross peoples minds as an extension to their garden. But the shear volume of manure just a dozen rabbits produce is absolutely insane! While I would love to pasture them, the logistics to do so is rather difficult. Meanwhile, I'll just have to settle for the caging system.

Whatever the case, rabbit manure has the ability to be directly applied to the garden. No composting required. Recommended? Probably a good idea all the same. The same goes for sheep and goat manure actually ...

Back in January we cleaned a pickup load of manure/alfalfa out of our rabbitry. It had collected in a pile off to the side from clean outs from under the cages. Now we've cleaned out more and have at least another third of a pickup load. It's pretty awesome! Otherwise, we have compost from the milking stanchion area that consists of hay/straw, cow manure and wood chips. I've got quite a bit of that to spread around as well.

So fertility wise, my garden looks promising this year.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Planting Onions

This year I was on top of things with planting my onions ... maybe a little too on top of it. As soon as plants and bulbs came in to our local feed store in mid-February, I bought what I needed and started planting my Vandalia onion plants. With two more varieties to plant, a winter storm, probably the worst of the 2012-13 season, blew in. This was a long winded storm lasting about 2 weeks. During which we received 6-8 inches of sleet/snow and fairly cold weather.

I had mulched the onion plants but the cold had taken some of the tops off. I'm not confident about my accessment of the Vandalia onion plants survival but the bulbs didn't seem to freeze and there is a small amount of green remaining at the base of the leaves. Time will tell.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Insourcing Feed

This post about growing your own feed got my brain cranking... And while I made comments on the post itself I have some things I'd like to address.

As Bruce's post said, a lot of small farmers would like to grow their own livestock feed be it hay or grains. It's not a bad desire, it's just an 'is it feasible?' desire.

We've been trying to accomplish this ourselves for years. We raise pigs and have dairy cows. These two farming enterprises require high inputs. Pigs have high quantity and dairy cows are high quality. Buying in feed for either sucks the pocket dry if you're not careful.

Techniques We've Done Historically

How do you do it? Welllll, that's the million dollar question. Equipment is expensive. Especially harvesting equipment and that is also proprietary. So we don't harvest it we let the animals do the work. We haven't been able to get a consistent year round rotation but we're hoping to change that this year since we now have a tractor and have acquired small scale tilling and planting implements. But before our pigs were our implements. After they were through an area we'd broadcast something. Generally we used turnips, oats, amaramth, wheat or milo and have had varying results. The optimum timing was to broadcast right after the pigs left. For some seeds, it was helpful if it was something being fed to the hogs. So it would be tossed in long lines on the ground. The pigs would eat, trample and turn it in. This is a little more uneven but it works fairly consistently. All the same our attempts usually resulted in some kind of increased diversity of pasture.

While all that is fine and good, it doesn't really extend your green season or reduce the need to buy in feed.

Our Future Path

Our goal this spring is to create higher density forage that will actually provide feed replacement. This means tilling and planting acres worth of area with balanced diversity. A field of green tops are great for ruminants but only act as a feed supplement NOT a feed replacement in hogs. In that regard, it's significantly easier to improve fodder for ruminants than repace feed for hogs.

We had an intriguing occurrence once early on with a hog. We stuck him in my 60x60 ft garden area. I was experimenting with a Fukuoka system of garden which was failing because I used ladino clover rather than white dutch. So I had a garden area with poorly growing sweet potatoes some other poor doing vegetables and a rather thick stand of clover. He went off feed. Didn't act or look sick but he didn't want the grain. I was weight taping him regularly. The first week he gained 40-50 lbs. This took him to finish weight with no grain. We were pretty astounded!

So how do we recreate this on a field scale? Unfortunately, the first step is understanding the nutritional requirements for the animals. All livestock have needed requirements to achieve their growth rate potential. For example, hogs main growth limitation is protein, in particular, lysine. A traditional high lysine hog feed is barley. In China, amaranth was commonly used. Amaranth is another good lysine rich feed.

This is companion planting on a much larger scale with slightly different reasoning as to why. So for a summer planting and fall harvest you could plant amaranth, cowpeas (we're avoiding soy here as well)  and turnips. For midsummer harvest, you'd be looking at barley, oats and winter peas. Spring harvest is a little more on the greener side so supplemental grain would be likely needed. For spring harvest: kale, turnips and oats.

Winter is the hardest. A note for leaving standing grain, such as corn, in the field over winter to be harvested this way: mycotoxins. Mycotoxins are a bad bad deal. If in excess they will cause gain issues, fertility issues and psudeo-pregnacies. Take these very seriously when dealing with hogs we learned the hard way. Ruminants seem to be able to deal with them better but it's still not a good thing for them. They mainly occur when grain is left dry in the field for too long of period. So those corn fields that sit there forever are at high risk for mycotoxins. This really goes for any grain crop. Getting wet when ready to be harvested creates problems with molds and fungus. So for winter, a good plan would be a green annual like July/August planted winter wheat, May planted field pumpkins (left in the field they'll keep) and July/August winter radishes (i.e. diakons). Both diakons and wheat will broadcast but your best bet would be row cropping. So plant pumpkin rows far enough apart to till and plant between them. Such is the fun of figuring out feed replacement ..

<b>Final Musings</b>

Hopefully this helps plant the seed of how to possibly insource most all your livestock feed. I know I mainly only addressed hogs but ruminants are a little easier to work out. I will make this wise recommendation, keep some hay and grain around. A bad winter storm can leave self harvest crops inaccessible. Drought can cause crop failure and leave some crops poisonous (look into prussic acid and the related crops). So always have something so you're not scrambling later.

Hallelujah! A blogger app for my phone!

I have been watching for a blogger app to make posting easier.. and finally it's available!  I think it was actually available awhile ago but I'm so busy I haven't checked for awhile.  So hopefully this will make it easier..  it'll certainly make adding pictures easier.